I came across this today from Photographer Daniel Månsson, says it all really, surfing isn't about winning its about surfing, stoke and its a cliché but its about having fun."Clay Marzo is a surfing savant. Growing up on the idyllic shores of Maui he knows nothing of the modern world. Yet at the age of 18, he is touted as one of the greatest surfers the world has known. Quiksilver, the multinational surfwear giant now pays this charming young man $500,000 US dollars annually for him to endorse their products. Which is no problem for Clay: as long as he has some tasty waves and enough weed to stay lifted 24/7 he will be fine. Truth is, Clay Marzo is a diagnosed autistic. When he is in the water he is truly in his own world. He has one rap CD—Andre Nikatina— he listens to everyday. He lives the life that most of us only dream: a life free of pretension. He is famous, but he doesn’t know it. He is rich, but he doesn’t care. His surfing is more electric than Kelly Slater, but he doesn’t surf to be the best. He surfs to surf. He is a true soul surfer. He lives with his mother. Clay has a brand new truck that his sponsors bought him, but he doesn’t have a driver’s license. He doesn’t care. Clay is living proof that ambition isn’t for everybody. Clay Marzo surfs like Salvador Dali painted. He is an original ripper. There is something to be learned from his life: Don’t be a claimer!"
Check out Daniel's superb photos here
And the Clay story and more shots amongst others here.
